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The MXDeals.com Riding & Tech Tips

Think smart by riding protected. Protect yourself by wearing the proper safety gear whenever riding.
  • Snug fitting Dot or Snell approved helmet.
  • Goggles
  • Gloves
  • Motocross boots
  • Long pants
  • Long sleeves
  • Knee and shin guards
  • Chest protector
  • Elbow pads
  • Hip pads

    When removing and cleaning plastic for new graphics, try spraying on some contact cleaner. It gets rid of the old gummy glue and helps prepare the plastic for new graphics.

    Got carbon stains on your fender from your exhaust? Use "Goo Gone" and "Goof off" to quickly remove the carbon stains. Then grab your Silkolene Pro-prep and give your plastic a shine that makes even Britney Spears look pale in comparison.

    Secure a Ziptie around the bottom of each fork slider right next to the seal. When you finish a practice, look to see where the Ziptie is located on the fork slider. If the tie did not get pushed to the opposite end of the slider, then your fork suspension is probably set too hard for your riding style.

    If your dirtbike is bottoming out on the landing of many jumps, but still seems good everywhere else on the track, you should try increasing the fork oil level by 2mm per fork until your jumps feel better. It would also be a good time to replace the old fork oil and go with all fresh oil.

    Any MX moto is won or lost in the corners. Instead of just concentrating on exiting a corner faster, make sure you are entering the corner fast too. Every lap, try to leave the throttle on a little longer into each corner. Brake hard with the front brake only the last few feet into the corner.

    Make sure to pay attention to your spokes when the bike is brand new. The first few rides will sometimes affect new spoke tension to be looser. Keeping the spokes tighten correctly will help keep your wheels round and true. It also helps to keep a spoke wrench in your tool box for making this job easier.

    Putting grips on your handlebars can be challanging sometimes. If you are too cheap to buy grip glue, then try a can of hairspray. Spraying the bar end will act as a lubricate for sliding on the hand grips. Once the hair spray dries, it acts as a glue to hold the grip in place.

    Before installing your new seat cover, try spraying the underside with a water proofing spray. Most shoe stores sell a water proofing spray that works just fine. This will help keep water from getting to the seat foam and will extend the life of the seat.

    Before attaching your clutch or brake perch onto the handlebars, wrap some Teflon plumbers tape around the bar where the perch will be attached. Then attach the perch just tight enough to be secure, but so that it will rotate if your dirt bike hits the ground. This can save you may broken clutch and brake levers over the years.

    Next time you have your tire off, get rid of the stock rubber rim strip around your hub. Replace it with a couple wraps of duct tape. This will do more for you in preventing flat tires from loosening spoke nipples.

    Changing a tire can be a simple process. The key is twofold. Apply a lubrating agent such as soapy water around the bead. Then break the bead and keep the tire edge in the center of the rim with your knee while slowly removing the tire from the rim on the opposite side of the rim.

    Next time you are adjusting your carb, turn the air screw all the way in. If the bike runs fine, then you need to replace your pilot jet with the next bigger size availale. Try turning the air screw all the way out. If your dirt bike still runs fine, then you need to replace your pilot jet with a smaller sized jet.

    When you are installing new coolant hoses, be sure to spray inside the ends lightly with a Silicone spray. This will help make installation much easier.

    Over the course of the motocross season, air pressure can begin to build up in your forks. This will make your forks run stiffer. Be sure to bleed the air out of your forks periodically to let the trapped air out. Better yet, regularly replace your fork oil will go a long way in keeping your front forks health.

    In a hurry to change those brake pads? Just pull the brake pins and the pads can be worked out. This saves time otherwise spent removing the wheel.

    Throw in a small empty coffee can with a snap lid into your pickup toolbox next time you go riding. Then get into the habit of placing any screws, clips, bolts, and nuts which come off your dirt bike while you are working on it trackside. Having all small parts securely in your possession is better than spending time hunting through the dirt and gravel of the pits looking for a lost screw.

    A basic part to always include in your travel part box is a master link for your dirt bike chain. Everyone has probably seen at least once a season that poor guy frantically begging others for a master link to fix his broken chain. Also, make sure the master link clip is positioned on the bike so that the closed end of the clip is pointed in the direction of wheel rotation.

    The stock axel blocks on most dirt bikes are not the most accurate indicator for proper chain aligment. Using a chain alignment tool will help keep your sprockets and chain running longer.

    Be sure to seal off any small openings and seams around you airbox junctions with silicone to prevent mud and water from entering the airbox.

    When your dirtbike plastic gets a crease in it, sometimes referred to as fatigue lines, use a heat gun to fix it. Point the heat gun over the fatigue lines and they should disappear as the plastic becomes heated.

    Install your frame guards by cutting and placing a piece of heavy clear plastic underneath the guard. This helps to prevent scraping between the guard and the frame.

    Ever over tighten your cylinder head bolts and one broke through the cylinder coolant jacket? Just clean and heat the area, then use some 2 part liquid epoxy on the bolt that broke through and it should be fine.

    If you ever strip the drain plug of your dirtbike, the best way to fix that problem is with an oversize heli-coil. The cheap way to fix it is with a drain plug repair kit for auto engines.

    Ron Hinson of Hinson Racing Clutches says that the latest trend in pro racing is to use his basket and pressure plate along with an aluminum driven plate with a coating called Akidize. This enables the use of lightweight aluminum plates with a surface that has more friction and is relatively wear resistant. No big secret formula for the oil, just 5 weight motor oil. The secret is to change the oil every moto.

    The main reasons why you need good handling suspension on a dirt bike is three-fold. First, to keep the wheels in contact with the ground to provide traction and drive for the rear wheel and steering for the front wheel. Secondly, to minimize the impacts and vibration on the motorcycle. And thridly, to minimize the stress loads on the rider and prevent fatigue and injuries.

    Forks draw in air as they rebound when the fork tube is misaligned with the slider and the air seeps past the wipers, seals, and bushings. The proper way to bleed the forks is to fully extend the forks by placing the dirtbike on a bike stand and bleed the air from the valves located on the fork caps.

    If an engine is set-up properly with the right compression ratio and jetting, it can make better power with oxygenated pump fuel. That is why the AMA has ruled pump fuel illegal for pro racing events.

    If the rebound damping is too soft or the compression damping is too stiff, that will cause your arms to pump up because it will make you squeeze the bars on and off while impacts are transferred through the forks. The main cause of weak rebound damping is a worn internal bushing located on the damping rod head.

    A freshly packed silencer will make your bike quieter plus it will run stronger because there will be less turbulence and back pressure in the exhaust system.

    Ever discover your swingarm bolt is stuck solid? Get a hacksaw, wedge it between the swinging arm seal caps and the frame and start sawing! Then you can pull out the swinging arm and use a steel punch to hammer out the remnants of the swinging arm pivot bolt. Make sure you change and grease the bearings so you never have to do this again.

    Pick up a spray can of Pam next time you are at the grocery store. Then next race day where there is a muddy track, spray your dirt bike where mud usually collect. The Pam will help keep your bike from packing up with mud.

    You race a newer Kawasaki MX bike? Kawasaki pays contingency money on selected dates in selected series. Check out the current racing season schedule to learn more!

    Flat, hard, dry, slippery turns can cause many riders to go too slow. Sliding around and worrying about spinning out, they back off the throttle to gain traction. Don't let that slow you down, just make sure you weight the outside peg. As you enter the hard flat turn, put your weight pressure on the outside footpeg. As the bike is leaned into the turn, your body provides counter pressure to the outside of the bike to load the suspension and flex the sidewalls. So next hard flat corner, try weighting your outside footpeg by place your knee against the tank and press down hard.

    The piston is the first line of defense against the extreme heat and pressures seen in the internal combustion engine. Good sealing, good reliability and tight clearances are of the utmost importance in making good horsepower. Due in part to advanced forging capabilities and the latest in CNC technology, a Wiseco piston will have tighter tolerances than any other part in your engine. Many of these tolerances are less than one-half-of-one-thousandths of and inch (.0005). When you think about replacing your piston, think Wiseco.

    Looking for sponsorships? Cycra Racer is looking for good motocross racers to help out.

    Depending on your riding habits and the conditions in which you ride, it may be necessary to lube your cables after every or every-other ride. Lubing the cable helps extend the life of the cable by serving as both a cleaner by pushing out dust and debris and as a lubricator.

    The part where the clutch cable connects to the clutch lever is called a barrel. This barrel must be able to pivot smoothly in the pivot point of the lever every time the lever is pulled. Sometimes dirt and debris can collect in this pivot area causing the cable to bend rather than pivot. It will cause a clutch cable to fray about 1/2" from where it connects to the clutch lever if left unattended. Thoroughly clean this pivot point and lube the barrel before reinstalling the cable. Do this every time you lube your cables.

    Sometimes the throttle cable will fray about 1/2" from where it connects to the throttle tube. This can happen when the throttle is forcibly and routinely twisted farther than it is designed to be pulled. Another thing that can contribute to this is a lack of proper lube grease and lack of proper cleaning inside the throttle housing.

    If you are racing with oxygenated pump gasoline, the oxygenated gasoline results in a leaner air/fuel mixture compared to a conventional gasoline. This causes some engines not properly jetted to run rough. Also, engines may run hotter on lean mixtures, which, in the extreme case, can result in engine damage. Be aware of this - you may have to go to a larger jetting.

    There are numerous conditions that adversely affect jetting such as altitude, temperature, air density, fuel type and oil ratio. The effects of higher altitude will see a engine run rich due to less oxygen in the air. Temperature will richen the circuit the colder the air gets. Hot air, on the other hand, will lean the circuit.

    Changing your stock reeds to Boyesen reeds increases performance, but you might also want to change the main jet in your carb. The ability of the dual-stage reed to close quickly and more efficiently causes a stronger carburetor signal, trapping more fuel and air in the engine. This causes the carburetor to run rich in a full throttle position. Air speed, which we refer to as velocity, is increased. The increase in velocity pulls an excess of fuel through the main jet, causing a rich condition.

    With a dirt bike engine turning at about 8,000 r.p.m., the reeds will open and close 133 times per second. Like any other moving part in your engine, the ability of reeds to respond quickly to changes in throttle position will decrease over time. Life expectancy of your reeds vary depending upon engine design and riding characteristics. Someone who is always on the throttle, allowing the motor to over-rev constantly can expect less life from their reeds. If you are racing on a regular basis then it is a good idea to change your reeds 2-3 times a season for best performance. Reeds should be checked during regular top end service intervals for fatigue and chipping.

    If you cut your seat down to better accommodate your riding height, be sure to modify the handlebar height and footpeg locations to accommodate the changes to maintain the proper distance and ratio between them.

    Riding motocross with your body off the seat allows for better balance. Everyone has a different riding style, but you want to make sure you have good balance and control while jumping, in the whoops, rhythm sections and other technical parts of a track. Sitting will gain you traction, but really does limit your mobility and speed. If you are a seat sitter, practice riding the track standing up the entire lap.

    The main reason sprockets wear out fast is because of poor chain maintenance. The second reason is because the front and rear sprocket are not aligned correctly.

    Before installing a new chain, check that your sprockets are aligned. You can easily do this by placing a straight edge against the face of the rear sprocket. The straight edge should be touching the entire face of the rear sprocket and the entire face of the front sprocket. Using a straigh edge like this, you can visually insure that the sprockets are running in the same plane. If they are out of align, then use the axel adjuster bolts on the swing arm and adjust so the rear sprocket is in perfect alignment with the front sprocket.

    Changing the gearing ratio of your dirtbike will allow you to transfer power to where you need it. If you want to add a little more torque on the low end, replace the rear sprocket with a larger sprocket. Transfering your power to gain more speed on top, replace the rear sprocket with a smaller sprocket. You can also alter gearing ratio by changing the front sprocket, but changing the front sprocket will have a dramatic affect on gearing ratio. Initially, start by changing the rear sprocket if possible.

    Sometimes the simple things are overlooked. To avoid loss of control or injury, make sure axle nuts are tight and secured. Grasp each tire at the front and rear and try to rock it on its axle to detect worn-out bearings or loose nuts. There should be no free play or slip as you rock the wheel. Inspect wheels for broken or loose spokes and for cracks on the hub or rim.

    Replace immediately any broken spokes and tighten any loose ones. Broken spokes transfer additional tension to adjoining spokes, creating the potential for further spoke failures. After tightening or replacing spokes, be sure that the wheel rims run true. Inspect the rim, rim band and tube, and replace any of these components if they are damaged before refitting the tire. Both broken and loose spokes may cause wheel wobble, thus accelerating tire wear, and could cause instability.

    Tighten wheel rim locks with a higher tire pressure than the recommended air pressure. Once tightened, and before you ride, readjust your tire pressure to the proper level.

    Front suspension performance relies greatly on fork oil quality: is it old and dirty? Also viscosity: is it too heavy or too light for outside ambient temperatures? And too, the amount of oil in each leg: is your fork bottoming or feel too firm?

    Do you have a problem with your goggles fogging up? Try this. Take an ordinary bar of hand soap and soak it for a few minutes in water to soften it up. Then scrape some of the softened soap off and make a thin paste of it with more water. Apply soapy paste to the inner surface of the goggles and let it dry for a few minutes. When dry, buff the lens with toilet paper repeatedly until the lens are clear. This works great for several hours of decent anti-fogging protection.

    Motocrossing carries responsibility as well as freedoms. Always get permission before riding MX bikes on private lands. Make sure your cycle has a good muffler that keeps your bike quiet. Try not to damage any grassy, swampy areas including sand dunes. Do not ride close to other houses unless you have permission. Make sure you pickup all your trash & do not spill oil or fuel onto the ground.

    Try mounting you motorcycle lever perchs on the handlebars slightly loose so that they pivot if you crash rather than snap.

    You should be able to pull your motorcycle clutch & brake levers in about 5-10mm before they start working. This avoids riding the clutch & helps prevent fore-arm pump.

    Consider gluing your motorcycle grips to the handlebars to avoid them slipping during a race. Some MX riders use grips with no pattern on the top side to avoid blisters. Replace grips when worn.

    When trail riding, running tire pressures too low means you run the risk of getting a flat tire. If the pressures are too high, your rear wheel will spin & not get traction. You should run between 10-15 psi (pounds per square inch) in both your front & rear tires. On a wet day, drop pressures to 10psi. On a hard/rocky track keep your pressures at about 14psi.

    Off-road motorcycle riding is all about bumps, so having your bike suspension set up correctly is vital. If you are racing your MX bike, you should get your suspension serviced by a qualified person at least once a year.

    You should consider setting your suspension so that it sags a certain amount when you sit on it. On a full-sized motocross or enduro cycle, the bike should sag about 25mm under it’s own weight and 95mm when you sit on it. Use a measurement between the rear axle bolt & the seat bolt to see if your sag is correct. Consult your motorcycle service manual for the exact sag measurement.

    The amount of the top of the forks poking out of the motorcycle top fork mount affects the bike handling. Having a lot of the fork showing means the front of your MX cycle is lowered which makes the bike turn more quickly, but be more unstable at high speeds over rough ground. Having the top of the fork level with the top fork holder raises the front of the motorcycle, making it more stable, but turning slower.

    The angle of your foot-peg is vital to racing well. Foot pegs sag down on the outside after a lot of use. The footpegs need to sit up higher on the outside when viewed from the front or behind. To do this, take your motorcycle foot-peg off and put a spot of weld on the bottom inside of the peg. Having your footpegs tilted up helps glue your knees to the seat and gas tank, which fast riders do.

    Correct body position is the foundation of riding MX well. Just like if you started to build a motorcycle, you would start with the frame, so to when learning to ride MX better, you start with your frame - your body. Consider your back as a part of the frame of the bike and your arms and legs as suspension.

    Practice the standing attack position when motorcycling rough ground, going up or down hills, sweeping corners, and jumping. You want to stand crouched on the off-road motorcycle with knees slightly bent, gripping the seat with your knees, elbows up so arms are in line with forks, head above the handle bar with eyes looking ahead 40 to 50 feet in front of you.

    Practice the seated attack position when cornering and at racing starts. Sit as far forward as possible on your motorcycle, crouch and lean slightly forward with your elbows up so arms are in line with the motorcycle forks. Head should be about 3 hand widths above the handlebars while you grip the seat/tank with legs. Keep two fingers on your hand controls and keep looking ahead.

    When racing your moto and traction is not available on a portion of the track, slip your backside back towards the middle of the seat. This adds weight to the back tire. But be sure to keep your head above the bars to keep some traction on the front end.

    You can double your suspension while MX racing simply by standing up rather than sitting. Use your legs and arms as a second set of suspension components.

    It is really important to move smoothly between standing and sitting while racing so that you keep your body weight balanced on the MX bike. To move from the seated position to the standing position while racing, simply straighten your legs until you are standing on the bike with slightly bent legs. To move from the standing to the seated position, sit and slide forward in the same motion until you are sitting as far forward on the seat as possible. Your head and shoulders should remain in the same position whether you are standing or sitting. Only the position of your legs and behind changes. Your head should be the length of your forearm away from the handlebars at all times. Elbows are always up for strength & stability.

    You have an imaginary point in your body around which your weight is evenly distributed. This point, called your center of gravity (COG), is just in front of your stomach. Likewise, your motorcycle has a similar point around the middle of the engine. Controlling a off-road motorcycle has a lot to do with where the two COG’s are in relation to each other. The closer you can put your COG to the MX bike’s COG, the more stable, controlled and balanced you will be. This is why many top riders crouch over their dirtbikes with their head centered over the handlebars.

    A common mistake made, especially by week-end off-road motocross riders, is that riders sit too far back on their dirt bike. This means their COG and weight is rear of the motorcycle’s COG. This means the rider overloads the rear suspension, strains their forearms and back muscles (leading to forearm pump) and uneven traction on the tires.

    The lower your body’s center of gravity is to the base of support, the more stable your dirtbike will be. A racer crouched low over their MX bike is less likely to be thrown sideways in a corner. By crouching low, the pendulum effect is decreased.

    In order to get maximum traction in a sweeping corner, try pressing down on the outside footpeg of your motorcycle.

    Corners win races! Anybody can go fast on a straightaway. But if you can save 1/4 of a second every corner, that could equal 2 to 3 places higher up at the end of the moto.

    Good cornering practice activities on your motorcycle include some slow first gear circles, figure eights, barrel racing, stand up cornering, weaving in and out of cones, and doing donuts in the dirt.

    You need to be very accurate when riding a rutted corner. It is important that you line the rut up so you enter in a flowing way. Lean with the bike, rather than leaning the bike below you. Get your inside leg up high so it does not drag on the ground and can provide weight for the front wheel.

    Cornering Lines - in general, try to take wide entries into corners, especially flat and bermed turns. A wide entry means you make the corner as flowing as possible and can usually get on the gas earlier.

    Most jumps are approached in a rider standing position. Choose a smooth spot on the jump to take off from. Make sure the motorcycle is in the meaty part of the power band as you hit the jump face. Be sure to grip the bike firmly with your legs and use the throttle as you take off. You do not need to push or pull on the bike as you take off, just let the suspension compress & rebound naturally.

    Riding a dirt bike takes a lot of physical effort. You need to develop endurance in your legs, arms and back (basically all muscles) as well as get aerobically fit for easy breathing. Consider some form of fitness training between motocross outings.

    A nutritional problem some riders face is a lack of fluid leading to dehydration. During intense motocross practice or racing, a rider can lose up to 3 litres of fluid per hour. It only takes a loss of one percent of body weight caused by fluid loss before performance is impaired. The symptoms of dehydration can include head aches, starry vision, cramp, disorientation and exhaustion. You do need to drink before you are thirsty!

    When lining up at starting gates for your moto, try to relax your brain. Keep your thoughts positive. Your mind plays a huge role in how well you race in MX. Your mood, your concentration, and thoughts have a big influence both positive and negative.

    A lot of MX racing success comes down to mental toughness. This is the ability to control your own mind and remain positive and focused no matter what happens. You need to become a mentally tough unit. Once you can achieve a consistent positive never-give-up, 100% effort attitude, you can perform at your best always.

    Before going over a jump or around a deep rut, imagine yourself doing it perfectly. Fill the mind with the right picture and often the body will follow through. Think negatively and you have a good chance of failure.



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